Working on a Thor Ragnarok armor tunic.. We took a body form of the cosplayer and made my templates on the form, Will be doing a slight amount of leather wet molding over the pecs on my male mannequin and adding thin foam insets to get depth in the stomach area to match the on screen version.
Just got this guy in and it's sooooo neat I had to share!!! (The Crystal matrix on here is just incredible)
I love props, but recently I started developing some small hand sculpted items, Ive been missing sculpting and 2 years ago decided to work on this as a side project in my spare time... Now I'm finally getting to the point I'm ready to share so watch out for some fun Crystals, Mushrooms and small chibi Mandrake and Pokemon sculpts as I finalize design ideas for them and start the sculpts! 😁
I'm excited to share this passion project with y'all and really hope you enjoy them!
WIP: Commission for a 'hard' pompadour wig from the Devil's Carnival, have it mostly fleshed out here in Monster Clay and building out the waves of hair.
TIP: When working oil based clay you can smooth the surface with solvents. 99% IPA alcohol is a weaker solvent, mineral spirits, and Naptha are stronger ones that actually begin breaking down the structure of the clay while smoothing the surface so you have to be sparing. (When working with solvents always use protection for lungs and skin).
Sculpt Repair I got to do on this really adorable catreature!
It was ceramic, a material which is always tricky both because during firing the clay is fused into a single piece in the kiln and the 4esultant conglomerate doesnt like glue very much and also since the true beauty of ceramic glazes are incredibly difficult to mimic with paints as that texture and the colors produced aren't flat but suspended in the glass part of the glaze. Luckily this was a matte and much easier to fill the missing bits and flaked off chips with putty then the slow process of color matching, I ended up mixing custom colors with pearls and metallics added in to get the correct final colors.
Really Happy with the final result and kitty is back in his home all better. 😁
Pretty stoked about my new spray booth!!
Huge thanks to my buddy Ryan for coming out yesterday and helping me move around the studio and build this bad boy!
I'll now be able to fit swords and longer items in here both legthwise and vertically. Still gotta pick up the duct and some small things to finish and add lights, but it's getting there! 😀
Full head and shoulders lifecast in the studio yesterday, using @smoothon BodyDouble Silicone with a plaster bandage shell.
Much sass was in evidence during this fun session with @kilsayth and @nicholasaxiotis thanks for an amusing afternoon!! 🤣
(If you are ever considering a lifecast please be sure and use skin safe materials and do your research so you don't injured yourself or model. 😊)
TIP: When making a mold of an item that has thin or small parts adding Vent channels to allow the air to escape makes a huge difference in final castings. Here I've added them to the noses of each wolf snout.
MORE: You can use anything to make your channels from wax to string, but I really like using electrical wire because I can bend it to place and it will stay.
Was doing a 3 part Matrix Mold for @hexmortis for their Warhammer40K helmet build, here it is all Clayed up and waiting for first shell.
TIP: The placement and shape of registration keys is incredibly important, they should both hold the silicone in the shell (despite gravity's best efforts), and also be able to come free. I've found that being slightly obsessive with how clean & sharp my keys are make a huge difference in more complex molds like this.
I was playing with the colors on the grips of my Witcher Swords and finally found a mix I'm happy with for the second one (bottom) I loved the paint mix sheen and glow Ive been using on the top grip (Vallejo: hint of gold, in mix of reds and browns) and had felt the other handle which is a brown without red in the game just didn't feel right. Finally had the idea to add bronze in there and Bingo! Just what it needed.
Super pleased with the results. (apologize for the super light pic, was trying to get it to show the deeper tones).
A 3-part Matrix Shell Mold I did for @hexmortis in the spring for a really awesome Warhammer 40K helmet design they'll be selling.
Quick Run through of steps :
-Clay up positive 1" thick all way around and add keys (after wrapping original to keep clean).
-Make mold wall shims with registration keys where mold parts will separate.
-Make fiberglass outer shell over clay leave a pour spout open. Do the same for the other 2 parts.
-Open up and clean out clay for one silicone section, pre-drill small air escape holes all over, pour in silicone. Repeat for the other 2 sections.
-Clean out clay and model!
Ready for rotocasting!
Axe Handle details- Cast Resin and Leather.
The handle was sculpted to have wood grain texture before molding and a painted faux finished to have the variegated multicolored patterns. Then I weathered the surface of the "wood" as well as the leather wrappings to appear worn, dirty, and well used like any proper viking weapon. 😁
Been doing a good bit of production molds for clients the past month.. If not using waterbase clay in my sculpt I actually prefer using it to oil base clay in my mold making process.
In this post I would like to make known to all my followers @jmprops (Julia Emerald). She is an artist really incredible and she offered to give me a technical/chemical consulting to solve the problems I had with the Degas clay by Prochima. She is specialize in high and quality replicas and she has a Fine Arts degree in Sculpture and Ceramics. Julia is also an amazing prop maker and fx makeup artist. Probably there is nothing she can’t do :)
She takes commission works on her website, in fb page and in her etsy shop:
Julia not only makes beautiful creations but she is also an excellent teacher and very kind. In her website www.jmprops.net you can find all the information about her workshops. If you live in the Atlanta (GA) I advise you to take a look at her page because I have never met someone so expert in silicone rubbers and resin. She also offer to travel to make workshop in other parts of US (min. 4 students). She actually works with a school in Atlanta and San Diego. I hope this post can lead to her many views and success because she really deserves it. I’m very honored to have had the opportunity to receive a so incredible help. Thank you for read this post and as usual so sorry for my imperfect English. I wish you a wonderful day
Finally some good news for all the problems I had in recent weeks about degas clay by Prochima. I have to thank for this first success especially the immense help that I received from @jmprops (Julia Emerald). She was been so kind to spent part of her time to understand the reasons of this problem and to propose some professional solutions to solve it (…not like the Prochima company =,=’). I have never known a person with so much experience with resin and silicone molds. In return I have published an article to help her get the visibility that she deserves. Please go to read my next post.
I made some simply creations just to test if this time resin would exit from the mold. Julia explained to me that the problem was due to contamination on the mold of the clay material. She recommended a few products like a particular type of alcohol and talc to mitigate this problem. The end result is still not perfect because I haven’t yet had the opportunity to apply all her advice. However, it is a great achievement. I had only some small problems in the inner parts of the rose because I haven’t been able to completely clean the mold. There are some tiny silicone glued parts inside rose petals.
TIP: Metallic looking surfaces need to be uber smooth to read correctly, I use filler primer and bondo, sanding (sometimes multiple times) in between each coat and going up to 2500 grit to achieve the necessary finish.
MORE: For 400grit and higher sandpaper I use the wet sanding technique. This keeps the super fine dust from getting in the air, prevents scratches, and gives a smoother finish.
Blackeye and chest laceration I did for the 48-Hour Film Festival folks today on the lovely @atenamy85 at @norcostcoatlantacostume (the wound was sculpted on the model with 3rd Degree, and a blend of cream and alcohol makeups)
Thanks to @syntheonline for having me!
FX makeup to mimic the marks of beginning violinists.. the fingers are red & swollen around the cuticles, with bruised calluses forming on the bottoms and "violinists hickeys" from where the instrument sits on the neck.
Playing around with different layouts.. TIP: Sometimes I find it easier to "sketch" in 3D than on paper, you can make minor adjustments and changes by "blocking out" before settling on the final shape and adding in the details.
Coldcast Brass, Aluminum, Copper, and Bronze from left to right. These guys are about 3/4" long and were pressure cast with Smooth-On Onyx to maintain strength in such a small package.
MORE: After casting these get buffed and polished to reveal the metal, using 000 steel wool and dremel polishing cloths.